Saturday 28 August 2010

Music and dancing in Fort Cochin, Kerala

Dixie joined Holly and I at the end of last week, and the three of us have had a wonderful time here in Fort Cochin, exploring music and dancing in this gorgeous town.
We found out about the Kathakali Arts Centre on our first day - an organisation which promotes traditional arts from all around the state. Each night they host a Kathakali theatrical performance, followed by different classial ensembles. So far the concerts i've seen here have included a Sitar and Tabla duo, a Tabla, Gingira and Violin trio and a Tabla, Gingira and Bamboo Flute trio. In each case, none of the musicians had met before, and all the concerts were totally improvised. It was so interesting to hear such a variety of sounds: The Tabla/Sitar combination creating really transporting, mystial pieces, the violin trio producing a much livlier, almost jazzy sound, and the bamboo adding a more lamenting quality. The Gingira is an amazing instrument - it basically looks like a small tambourine, but has the most incredible array of different sounds!
Through the centre, I was also able to organise a lesson in Indian Violin. I spent 2 hours with my teacher (who later performed in the concert) learning 3 differet Raga ad the beginning some basic improvisation around them. Really amazing! Sadly he was only in town for one day so I couldn't have any more lessons - although he definitely stressed that, until all the scales were under the fingers, it was fairly impossible to progress...sound familiar?!
Again through contacts at the centre, we were able to arrange a lesson in Indian Classical Dance. We learnt a Salutatio, and a series of different steps that really force you to hold your body in quite contorted positions! Lots of fun, some amusing videos to follow!

In other news, this week proved just how tiny the world is, as I bumped into a really old friend from London Childrens Choir days! We spent some really lovely days and evenings with Anna and her man, cooking, eating, drinking and dancing kerala style.
Yesterday, Dixie and I finally did that thing everyone says you MUST DO in here - a day in a boat on the Keralan backwaters. It was indeed amazing - we had the whole boat to ourseles and spent the day drifting between different island villages, attempting to row the boat ourselves and passing through the most lush scenary imagiable. Quite a week!

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